Thursday, July 26, 2012

My Peace Corps Journey: Most Memorable Moments in Swaziland

1. Meeting the 39 volunteers I was to spend the next 27 months with in Atlanta, Georgia.


2. Stuffing my face with sushi as my last meal in America.

3. Throwing my phone away.

4. Arguing with the airport workers that Swaziland and Switzerland are NOT the same place. It is crucial that our bags end up in the correct country.

5. Waiting to board the plane to South Africa and watching the World Cup game: U.S. vs. Ghana. Me being the only person in the airport cheering on Ghana.

6. Spending the night in JNB (Joburg Airport), while a World Cup game was going on just outside.

7. Arriving in Matsapha, Swaziland- an airport smaller than the Kona airport.

8. Our first night in country having our Medical Officer show us videos of RPCVs living with HIV. Being terrified and scared shitless.

9. Moving in with my AMAZING and WONDERFUL training host family.

10. The U.S. Ambassador, Earl Irving, coming to our small July 4th party.

11. Fighting for cookies and turning ALL topics to Las Vegas during our Language Training Sessions. Sophia, Rob and I were definitely the best and most productive group.

12. Having sessions in broken down buildings, under trees, and in rodevals (huts).

13. Our Medical Officer forgetting to mix fluids for our vaccination shots. Having to take it twice.

14. Alcohol Day, Cooking Day, and Mental Health Day were the BEST sessions. Yes, we got to taste local alcoholic beverages, a day set aside to learn how to cook, and a day devoted to learning how to stay sane. Informative, fun and looking back on it- very much needed.

15. Going on a field trip to Sondzela’s Game Park. Seeing wild zebras, wilderbeasts, crocodiles, and hippos for the first time.

16. On the Job Training (OJT) from hell. In the 3 days spent at my future site: someone stole airtime/money from me, I learned that I was going to be stuck with the worst project in PC history-building a dam, my counterpart had intimidated and tried to persuade me to write proposals for more water projects, walked about 15 miles in one day, slept on the floor with rats and bats, not having enough water to bathe, getting attacked by mosquitos, learning that a man had recently raped 2 young girls in a homestead not too far away, and finding out how terrible my transportation was. On the upside, I met my nearest PCV (about a 3 hour walk) and despite EVERYTHING, I knew if I could stick it out, it’d be the BEST experience of my life.

17. Being Sworn In as Peace Corps Volunteers in an old gym. We were required to set up and strike our own party. They ran out of food. Most of us left hungry and tired. Despite it being absolutely terrible, we were stoked because we were FINALLY free and moving into our permanent homes.

18. Moving in, and having PC assist me in getting my water barrels filled (along with the 10 extra water containers from my host family). Took 3 hours for 3 PCVs and 2 PC staff to fill ALL water containers from the borehole. WELCOME HOME SHAUNA!

19. Walking, relaxing, swimming, having picnics near/in the dam. 3 months later- finding out there are CROCODILES in there. Thank you community members who despite my questions about wild animals- laughed at me and said it was ok to swim in.

20. Cows knocking over my bucket full of collected rainwater. It was devastating.

21. Celebrating my 22nd birthday in my hut with good friends!

22. Dealing with rats the size of cats, bats, scorpions, tarantulas, frogs, centipedes, and some crazy weird bugs in my hut for 2 years.

23. Running away from snakes- mainly black and green Mambas on my homestead.

24. Attending my first Traditional wedding.

25. Walking for my water in a broken wheelbarrow, uphill and in sand. (Refer to blog post 2010)

26. Having my trucks and khumbis get stuck in sand, then having to push the vehicle out of the sand, while running away from black mambas. This happened more times than I can possibly count.

27. Getting struck by lightning. During an intense lightning storm, my hut was hit. There was a loud boom on my roof, sparks flew out of my socket, and my body went into convulsions. I called my friend to verify that I was indeed alive.

28. My mode of transportation are trucks -which they fill to the absolute limit. Trucks are not certified so when the police are out- I have no transportation. One day we had been waiting for 4 hours to get back. Finally we ended up going but through a different route and through the bushes. In turn we ended up losing our gas cap, people’s belongings, the side mirror, and scarily, the tailgate which I was partially leaning on. Every time something flew off we’d have to run after the item and retrieve it. As the police were still out, we had to send someone to check the roads ahead and make sure it was clear. One of the craziest transport experiences to date.

29. Celebrating Thanksgiving at the U.S. Ambassador’s house. BEST THANKSGIVINGS EVER. Thank you Earl Irving! (Refer to past blog posts about it.)

30. My youth clubs <3

31. MOZAMBIQUE. African vibe, Latin Influence, Salsa dancing, Island living= AMAZING time. Minor Precaution: Beware of corrupt cops in Maputo.

32. Hostel Takeover= the first of MANY PC parties and events.

33. Marula Festivals! 2011 and 2012. Refer to blog posts.

34. Attending PC trainings: In-Service Training, Mid-Service Training, Grief and Loss, Medical Mid-Service, All Volunteer Conference, and Soka Uncobe trainings.

35. SOKA UNCOBE (Male Circumcision)- fun trainings, great times, and awesome project to be a part of. Brought about many important conversations on health and HIV.

36. Changing of Country Directors. Changing of Assistant Peace Corps Director and Programming Director. For all intents and purposes, let’s just say it was ROUGH and made for a challenging service.

37. BUSHFIRE! Southern Africa’s largest music festival (2011 and 2012)

38. J-Bay Surf Trip (see blog post July 2011).

39. Being sick for 6 months. The lowest point- fainting in the latrine at night and unsure how long I was passed out with one arm out the door and hugging the “toilet”. (See blog post )

40. Germany, Italy, and France. Seeing my parents after a year living in Africa. (See blog post September 2011)

41. Medical Mid Service- pooping in cups. Enough said.

42. Camping Trips at NGWEMPISI GORGE! By far my favorite place in Swaziland. (See blog posts October 2011/December 2011)

43. Halloween spent at a PCV homestead. Dressing up, creating costumes, and teaching the children how to knock and ask for candy. Cultural Exchange at its finest!

44. HhoHho Shenanigans! All my Hhos coming together monthly for some fun and adventure within our communities.

45. 2 best friends’ weddings. Though I’ve missed a lot back home, I’ve been blessed to make such wonderful and loving friends in Swaziland. Most importantly, I’ve been able to share their special day with them.

46. Christmas and New Years Craziness! Included but not limited to camping, hiking, falling, dancing, music, and injuries.

47. Hlane National Game Park Camping- lying awake at 10pm listening to the lions roar then waking up in the morning and watching hippos, giraffes, elephants, rhinos, crocodiles, and many other animals gather at the watering hole.

48. Teaching Swim Lessons to 100+ adorable children for 2 years. Some of my happiest memories.

49. Tuesday/Thursday Prayer Meetings on my homestead. They consist of yelling, screaming, shouting, and lots of singing.

50. Painting murals and community buildings with friends, family, neighbors, and community members. (see blog post March 2011)

51. Teaching in the schools. The joy your receive watching your students flourish and grow with excitement from learning.

52. Learning that I quite enjoy corporal punishment- then realizing I could never become a teacher in the States.

53. Bringing home a puppy for my family only to have it vomit, poop, and pee ALL over me multiple times in the first 30 minutes of travelling. It took 4 hours to get home and 3 different modes of transportation. The puppy also had worms so I was covered in them as well. Ranks as a top contender for the worst transportation rides EVER.

54. Being able to watch my GLOW clubs grow and strengthen and see the girls gaining valuable knowledge from it. (see blog post on Camp GLOW April 2012)

55. Falling asleep to the soothing drums of the traditional healer in the homestead next door.

56. Being sick and stuck in the Peace Corps Office for over 2 weeks and eating the same meal every day. The upside: free internet all day, being able to eat meat, a bathroom, running water and getting to shower daily.

57. Building 2 libraries in my community. Helping the schools sort, label, and shelve 1,000 new books per school. A constant joy to see how excited teachers, parents, and children get at the site of books available for them to read.

58. Receiving gifts from friends, members of the community and from the ambassador. :D

59. 4th of July 2012- meeting G10 Volunteers at the Country Directors house, eating hot dogs, hamburgers, lighting fireworks, singing the national anthem and being chosen by the U.S. Ambassador to read the Declaration of Independence- while slightly tipsy off of 1 beer. How the times have changed!

60. Telling my Make (host mother) the date that Peace Corps is picking me up and her breaking down crying and telling me the best compliments.

61. Finish painting the pre-school and NCP. Spending my last few weeks in my community with friends, music, laughing, and painting HIV awareness advertisements.

62. Waiting for the Peace Corps vehicle to pick me up, waving goodbye to my family, and driving away.

The Strength of a Swazi Woman

As time races against the clock, I find myself reminiscing on these past 2 years.

I’ve learned A LOT. From the countless hours spent alone in my hut I’ve gotten to know myself- both the best and worst qualities. I’ve grown more assertive, passionate, and articulate. No longer am I that timid young girl, cautious of stepping on people’s toes and afraid to speak my mind. This has mostly been in part to being surrounded by 60 other insanely crazy, motivational driven, and natural born leaders or also known as Peace Corps Volunteers. During my Pre-Service Training we often would go late into the evenings past the sessions- asking questions, arguing and debating. The loud and persistent took the forefront of the conversations and the quiet were left stringing along. In a room full of leaders you quickly learn to find your voice or have it spoken on your behalf.

My eyes have been opened to development work and from first-hand experience I have learned the Do’s and Don’ts of “helping” others (see the previous blog post).

I have physically and mentally grown as well. I have learned to appreciate water and` look forward to the day where I will not be having to walk a couple kms for it or have to rely on the rain. I have learned to deal with creatures of all kinds including black mambas (snakes with venom so poisonous it’d kill you within 15 minutes), scorpions, tarantulas, bats, rats, centipedes, frogs, roaches, and spiders of all kinds. I have learned to say no to people.

But the hardest trial and biggest obstacle of living in Swaziland has been one of gender inequality and sexual harassment. In training we were told the best way to deal with sexual harassment was to let it happen and don’t make a scene or the perpetrators will continue and make it worse. And that is what I did. For the first couple of months I would let the comments slide. I would reason with myself, “This is their culture.”

One day as I left my shopping town heading back to site, I was stuck in the back of a pick-up truck with 20 other people. Packed full, the men used this to their advantage getting as close as they could to me. Besides the touching, and the “accidental kiss” when the truck turned, one young man used this as a way to sing Celine Dion in my ear. As hilarious as this was, it bothered me that they thought it was OK to do so. I told them to back off I did try to take this lightheartedly convincing myself it was OK because this was their culture.

In my community I noticed the gender differences all around me. The way men treated women, the way women were to serve men in their own homes, how boys were clearly superior to girls in every aspect of life. These things annoyed me relentlessly but still I did nothing because it was not my place nor my culture to do things differently. Then one day a guy in my community who I had become friends with, said something that pushed me over the edge. On a facebook message he said that this was a man’s world and it was understandable that women should not be heard. I broke down and in turn lost all faith in this country. This was my turning point. I directed all my energy into having girls empowerment clubs- GLOW. If men didn’t believe in the women, and their society is constantly putting these young women down, how do they expect to succeed?

Throughout the 2 years I have experienced a lot of sexual and gender harassment, but sadly this is NOTHING to what Swazi women experience daily. I have said it before and I will say it again, Swazi women are the strongest people on earth. They are raised in a male dominated society, and those in the rural areas are beaten, sometimes raped, and they are raised with the notion that they are made to get married and have lots of children regardless if they finish school.

If it wasn’t for the love, generosity, and strength of the Swazi women, I would have left this country a long time ago. They are a beacon of all that is good in the world. They are a light and shining example that things can be beautiful despite all the bad and harm that comes your way. The Swazi woman is strong, loving, loyal, caring, respectful, generous, cares for everyone regardless if it’s their child or not, and despite any physical or emotional abuse they receive- the Swazi woman remains the solid rock of faith. For all the bad that I have experienced on behalf of the male gender, I have gained more perspective and love from the women. So this is to you- My Swazi friends, family and confidants. You are amazing, you have kept me here, you have taught me what it means to be strong. I will forever respect, love and admire you. Keep your heads up. A new day is approaching.

Wednesday, July 25, 2012

Bored? Read some books!

Peace Corps is a time for development projects, helping others, building relationships, and learning about yourself. It is also the perfect time to catch up on reading books you've never had time to read and watch television shows and movies you've always avoided in the States! The following is a list of books I have read in the past 2 years. Obviously I've had A LOT of time on my hands. If you want some time to catch up on life- join Peace Corps!


July 2010- YEAR 1:

1. Kingdom of Roses and Thorns- Deborah Daly
2. The Other Boleyn Girl- Philippa Gregory
3. Under the Banner of Heaven- Jon Krakauer
4. The Cider House Rules- Jon Irving
5. Running With Scissors- Augustin Burroughs
6. The Sea- John Banville
7. How We Are Hungry- Dave Eggers
8. Life Expectancy- Dean Koontz
9. The Heaven Shop- Deborah Ellis
10. Velocity- Dean Koontz
11. More 5 minute Mysteries- Ken Weber
12. By the Light of the Moon- Dean Koontz
13. The Good Husband of Zebra Drive- Alexander McCall Smith
14. Seduce Me at Sunrise- Lisa Kleypas
15. In the Company of Cheerful Ladies- Alexander McCall Smith
16. Love and Houses- Marti Leimbach
17. Savannah Heat- Kat Martin

January 2011

18. The Girl With the Dragon Tattoo- Stieg Larsson
19. The Girl Who Played With Fire- Stieg Larsson
20. Bachelor Duke- Mary Nicholas
21. Playing For Pizza- John Grisham
22. A Kiss Before Dying- Ira Levin
23. The Appeal- John Grisham
24. Love Lies Bleeding- Susan Wittig Albert
25. Written On The Body- Jeanette Winterson
26. Snow Flower and the Secret Fan- Lisa See
27. Midnight Treasure- Katharine Kincaid
28. Forever Odd- Dean Koontz
29. The Quickie- James Patterson
30. To Kill a Mockingbird- Harper Lee
31. Mere Christianity- C.S. Lewis
32. The Contrary Blues- John Billheimer
33. Icy Sparks- Gwyn Hyman Rubio
34. Stranger Than Fiction- Chuck Palahniuk
35. The Girl Who Kicked the Hornet’s Nets- Stieg Larsson
36. Shanghai Girls- Lisa See
37. War Child: A Child Soldier’s Story- Emmanuel Jal
38. The Darkest Evening of the Year- Dean Koontz
39. Love Walked In- Marisa de los Santos
40. London Bridges- James Patterson
41. Little Bee- Chris Cleave
42. 44 Scotland Street- Alexander McCall Smith
43. Fresh Air Fiend- Paul Theroux
44. Not Quite A Gentleman- Jacquie D’Alessandro
45. The Boy in the Striped Pajamas- John Boyne
46. You’re the One That I Want: A Gossip Girl Novel- Cecily Von Ziegesar
47. Lifeguard- James Patterson and Andrew Gross
48. Harry Potter and the Chamber of Secrets- J.K. Rowling
49. Sail- James Patterson and Howard Roughan
50. Life of Pi- Yann Martel

July 2011- YEAR 2

51. Eclipse- Stephenie Meyer
52. Breaking Dawn- Stephenie Meyer
53. The Tao of Pooh- Benjamin Hoff
54. The Catcher in the Rye- J.D. Salinger
55. Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince- J.K. Rowling
56. Harry Potter and the Deathly Hollows- J.K. Rowling
57. The Sun Also Rises- Ernest Hemingway
58. The Dharma Bums- Jack Kerovac
59. The Bell Jar- Sylvia Plath
60. The Snows of Kilimanjaro and Other Stories- Hemingway
61. Middlesex- Jeffrey Eugenides
62. Making Money- Terry Pratchett
63. In Persuasion Nation- George Saunders

January 2012

64. Burning Bright- John Steinbeck
65. Siddhartha- Hermann Hesse
66. Midnight- Dean Koontz
67. Hard Eight: A Stephanie Plum Novel- Janet Evanovich
68. The Tipping Point: How Little Things Can Make a Big Difference- Malcolm Gladwell
69. Desert Rain- Elizabeth Lowell
70. Edge of Danger- Jack Higgins
71. Three to Get Deadly: A Stephanie Plum Novel- Janet Evanovich
72. Fearless Fourteen: A Stephanie Plum Novel- Janet Evanovich
73. Seven Up: A Stephanie Plum Novel- Janet Evanovich
74. The Hour I First Believed- Wally Lamb
75. Teaching the Dead Bird To Sing- W. Paul Jones
76. Wicked: The Life and Times of the Wicked Witch of the West- Gregory Maguire
77. The Hunger Games- Suzanne Collins
78. Is There Democracy In Swaziland? A Personal Perspective- Rebone Tau
79. Long Walk To Freedom- Nelson Mandela
80. Game of Thrones- George R.R. Martin
81. Catching Fire- Suzanne Collins
82. MockingJay- Suzanne Collins
83. A Clash of Kings- George R.R. Martin
84. Anthem- Ayn Rand
85. The Da Vinci Code- Dan Brown
86. Pathologies of Power- Paul Farmer
87. River Town- Peter Hessler
88. The Screwtape Letters- C.S. Lewis
89. Smiles: Stories, Essays, and Little White Lies- Gary Schwartz
90. Great Short Stories of the World: Volume One- Reader’s Digest