A typical "mouse"

This poor sucker fell off of my roof and into my water container. Beautiful, huh?! (If these are my mice, just imagine the size of my rats)

Birthdays, Camping and Hiking

Calling all October birthdays to the floor. Whatup?! This month marked the 2nd birthday I’ve spent in Swaziland and it was absolutely perfect. There’s a surprising amount of volunteers who were born in October and because we were on lockdown last year- a.k.a. integration and couldn’t leave our huts for more than 1 night a month leaving most of us to spend our birthdays alone or with limited company- we decided to do something fun this time around! The plan: a camping adventure at the Ngwempisi Gorge.

Our original group of 14 people quickly reduced in half following an incident concerning the PC office. So our small but amazing group of PCVs met in the tiny “town” of Luyengo. All necessities were picked up: toilet paper, bread, peanut butter, eggs, water, and alcohol. From there we hired a khumbi to drive us out to the Ngwempisi Gorge. Unfortunately the khumbi driver had absolutely no idea how far out this place was and in turn, ran out of gas. Having no other choice we hopped out and contemplated our next move. Luckily we weren’t stranded for long. A U.S. AID car picked us up and gave us a lift to the drop off point. From this homestead, which was perched on a mountainside, we hiked in for a little less than ½ km until we arrived at the Ngwempisi Gorge Rock lodge.

First off, let me explain this magical place. The community surrounding the Ngwempisi Gorge built a Rock Lodge on the mountain side. Yes, I said a ROCK Lodge. They used the pre-existing boulders and trees to shape a three story lodge creating what best could be described as a “tree house for adults”. And it is not to be taken lightly. This place is indeed for adults. The steep stairs carved into the rocks without guardrails, the outside toilet and shower situated on the side of a cliff, the boulders you can dangle your legs off of, and the one bunk-bed leaning against an “open window” - a few planks nailed in to stop someone from rolling out (This was my bed!), all of which made this the most unique and lovely place I’ve ever stayed in. These contributing factors along with the non-stop rain and lightning persuaded us to stay at the lodge for 2 nights so we wouldn’t have to carry our tents, sleeping bags, and belongings on the probable muddy 8 km hike we were doing the next day. Instead we chose to visit the hot springs in a day, hiking 16km.

The next morning we set off with our newly made friend and hiking guide at 9am. Energized and excited we stopped at 3 different viewpoints taking in the splendor and beauty of this country. Our guide pointed out anything and everything we asked about including porcupine poop, birds, trees, and even enlightened us on his community and the life he’s lived. Whoever took lead behind him learned and talked A LOT! We reached the Ngwempisi River around 11:30am. The next part of the journey was to cross the river and reach the hot springs which were “just around the corner”. My pride and Hawaiian roots emerged and I became confident I could walk the next part barefoot. Stupid, ignorant pride always gets in the way. After forging the river we hoped that the “15 minute walk” was indeed 15 minutes because the ground was COVERED in thorns, sticks, stones, and pine cone stickers. Due to this unexpected obstacle it was taking us a lot longer and so our wonderful guide gave us directions to the hot springs and went back to watch our belongings at the river. Cursing and swearing to ourselves every other step then pausing every couple of meters to clear our feet of thorns we eventually made it to the "HOT SPRINGS" about 45 minutes- 1 hour later. The hot spring was about a 4x4 ft. wide and 1 ft. deep pool. Laughing at how sad, disappointing, and not worth the pain the last section was, we soaked our feet and prepared ourselves for the walk back. Three of my friends decided to make native shoes out of leaves. As I have attempted and failed at doing this on many hikes in Hawaii, I decided to not even bother. I powered through and made it back in 30 minutes! We crossed back across the river and hung out until everyone made it. As my punishment for hanging out in the river, I was bit by some mysterious creature. A very sharp, stinging sensation and a welt soon appeared on my butt. A few weeks later this bump is still there. So, we rested up on the river bank for another ½ hour and then proceeded up the mountain. The first third of the hike was absolute torture. The men were running up the mountain and I, in turn, was gasping for air and longing for water. We hit the 1st resting point, a small stream, and bathed/drank in its glory! After regaining our strength we proceeded back to camp. Hiking at a slightly slower pace we made it back without as many stops. The entire time we were talking about how wonderful a shower was going to feel and calling DIBS on it. Lo and behold, there was NO water when we returned. It’s a good thing we are all Peace Corps Volunteers and used to not bathing and smelling acceptable! At the end of the day I climbed onto the boulders, watched the sun set behind the mountains and marveled at the splendor and beauty of this marvelous place. This trip restored my love in Swaziland. With so much corruption, problems, and issues that we face daily, it’s easy to become spiteful. This getaway wiped the slate clean and I found joy and peace within my soul. I am looking forward to the day I’ll return to this oasis!

I've got my mind on vacation and vacation on my mind!

For the past year I have been planning two big trips. The first was to J-bay for the Billabong Pro surf competition and the second was to see my family. As PCVs we are allowed 2 vacation days per month, we cannot travel our first or last 3 months of service and under our old CD, we could use up all of our vacation days (if we so choose) after our first year. Aware of these conditions early on, I carefully planned out my vacations. I took a week for Christmas 2010 in Mozambique and then gave myself a week for J-bay and a little under a month with my parents leaving me with about 8 days to take the GRE and maybe one last surf trip in S.A. I had asked my parents to plan a trip roughly past my 1 year mark- which would give me something to work towards and my only requirement was that we had to be near the ocean for part of it. In the end, the winning destination was Italy! I decided that I would meet them there and I’d stop in Germany before hand. It worked out perfectly. I did 6 days in Berlin then met my parents, aunty and uncle in Florence where we took a train down to Cinque Terre, the 5 breath-taking towns on the Oceanside. I spent 6 days there where we hiked, played in the ocean, ate amazing seafood and even attempted to surf (but sadly all the surfboards were rented out). While my family stayed there, I went to Rome to see the jaw-dropping and awe-inspiring architecture and artifacts that I grew up studying about. It was mind blowing. I stayed for 3 days then met my family up in Venice for 4 days. From Venice we went to Florence for another 4 days and I went back to Berlin for a day then Paris for another day, and finally ended the trip in Jo’burg. It was an absolutely incredible, breath-takingly beautiful and wonderfully rejuvenating trip. The best part (well besides the amazing seafood) was getting to see my family again. Perhaps next year they will come to Africa? ;)

J-Bay

Growing up with a dad constantly watching surf movies and documentaries and who subscribed to Surfers Journal and Longboarding magazines, I quickly became familiar with surfers, surf styles, and most importantly- surf spots. My love for traveling started as a child and grew with age. As a kid I’d start packing months before our annual outer island trip to Oahu to visit family. I’d look forward to boarding the plane, sitting by a window and getting that delicious POG juice served on Aloha Airlines. In the 9th grade I was fortunate enough to go on a surf trip to Indo and my love for exploring exotic places sprung. I was hooked. But it wasn’t until college where I studied abroad twice that I realized travelling is easy and affordable, if done right. While studying abroad in Spain, some friends and I made it out to the Billabong Pro Mundaka 08’. The day before we got there Kelly Slater won his 10th world title. As upsetting as it was to miss him surf, we were able to catch CJ Hobgood win the tournament. It was a memorable trip and the following semester back in L.A., I found myself buying Surfer magazines, National Geographics, and travel magazines to plan out my next adventure, which to be sure always involved surfing.

So, coming to Africa I knew I had to go down to the famous world class waves that I’ve seen time and time again featured in documentaries and magazines; the ever inspiring Jeffrey’s Bay . Thus in my first 3 months at site I began planning my trip to watch the Billabong Pro J-Bay 11’. The competition was planned from July 16-26 and I decided to go down for the first week. But, as fate would have it, I got incredibly sick 3 days before my trip. I couldn’t keep anything in my system and my body was in shock. I stayed in the hospital until the day I left for S.A. Though I really was in no condition to be traveling, I couldn’t bear to lose money on the pre-purchased tickets. So on July 15th my friend and I went to Jo’burg then to Port Elizabeth and ended in J-bay. It was exactly what I needed and within the first day of arriving there, I started feeling better. The ocean was my remedy. It was absolutely amazing. We stayed at Island Vibe Backpackers located right on the ocean front. The hostel and staff was everything I could’ve asked for and more. The waves were small but I got in almost every day and we ate sushi daily! Unfortunately, the first night there my friend was mugged. Luckily they just stole her stuff and didn’t harm her. On our return to Swaziland, our Safety and Security Officer (nicknamed the Ninja) had been following the criminal activity at J-bay following our incident. He notified us that a business man was murdered there a couple weeks after we returned. This is just another realization and lesson to us all that even in the” safest places” we deem perfectly fine, we always need to stay cautious and take precautions in everything. In the words of the ninja, “Stay Vigilent!”

Kelly Slater, who was supposed to be the main event and attraction at the Quiksilver signing, was a NO SHOW to the competition. This makes the 4th-5th competition that I have missed him at. Maybe one day I will be lucky enough to witness him surf? Ha! Yeah right. I have the worst luck. Regardless, I will be at the tournament next year ready to cheer them on, and ready to brave the cold water without a wetsuit. Here’s to the Billabong Pro J-bay 2012!

GOODBYE SUMMER!!

It has been brought to my attention that I haven't updated this in a while. So, I'll do my best to summarize the past few months. We had our mid-service in March (only 9 months into being in country), but it was exactly what I needed. We brought our counterparts and planned out what projects we want to do and how we want to execute them. Being able to share project ideas with our fellow volunteers, seeing what has and hasn't worked and what motivates their communities was a great way to encourage us as volunteers to continue what we are doing. Following the mid-service conference, we had a grief and loss session. A session aimed at helping us to overcome losses in the past, present, and those we will be experiencing in the future. Swaziland is said to be one of the most difficult Peace Corps countries to serve in due to the amount of death we deal with. My own personal reminder is the fact that I'm being invited to more funerals than to weddings. Such a heavy burden weighs down on the soul. It's no wonder Swaziland once held the highest Peace Corps Early Termination (end of service) rate.

Following that week, I had a lovely 2 days relaxing, hanging out, and catching up with my fellow volunteers. It was absolutely wonderful! I also booked my flight to see my parents in a few months. Something that I really can't wait for because of: 1) Westernized countries- reliable transportation, and no crazy animals/insects finding their way into my hut and bed 2) SHOWERS on a regular basis 3) FOOD 4) Seeing my parents after a year away from home and 5) The OCEAN!!! It will be rejuvenating for the body, mind, and spirit. Luckily for me, swimming lessons using a hotel's facilities have begun and I'm beyond ecstatic. April 26th marked the 10th month anniversary of being in Swaziland. Our Peace Corps Country Director (CD) is returning home this month and we celebrated her service, time, and commitment to Swaziland with a ringing out ceremony in late April. Following the ceremony, PCV's from groups 6, 7, and 8 celebrated in true Peace Corps form- eating and drinking as much as possible, of course while watching the Royal Wedding and trying to spot Swaziland's Royalty on television. PC Swaziland's New CD is in training and we will have the pleasure of meeting him in June when Group 9 comes to Swaziland. BUT the absolute BEST part of it all- IT'S FINALLY WINTER!!! No more 120+ degree days and waking up at 5am drenched in sweat. I have never been happier to see winter come and summer go.

Making International Headlines

It's been a while since my last entry and A LOT has happened. Some of you may have read the articles I've been posting on facebook but for those of you who haven't and are curious, here's what's been going on.


-Following the outbreak in Egypt, students in Swaziland decided to hold their own protest against the government. The protest ended in them being dispersed by teargass. Protests are illegal here and an application must be submitted and approved in order to hold one.

-Swaziland had requested to purchase arms from the UK. Britain denied the request but a little while later a suspicious shipment came in from Mozambique. That shipment was later identified as arms.

http://www.times.co.sz/News/26159.html

http://www.starafrica.com/en/news/africa/article/mozambique-police-deny-swazi-arms-shipme-152199.html

-The government has no money. Civil servants were not getting paid.

http://www.timeslive.co.za/africa/article1061977.ece/Swaziland-cant-pay-civil-servants

http://mg.co.za/article/2011-05-11-broke-swaziland-cant-pay-civil-servants

-The King has given himself a 24% raise.

http://www.nytimes.com/2011/03/26/world/africa/26briefs-swaziland.html?_r=1

-The International Monetary Fund (IMF) has agreed to give Swaziland a loan if they make certain adjustments to the government.

-Nurses, students, and teachers all joined in on a peaceful protest held in March. The largest protest this country has ever held.

http://www.sowetanlive.co.za/incoming/2011/04/06/swazi-kingdom-faces-revolt

http://www.google.com/hostednews/afp/article/ALeqM5gjLE6MJuX2cbzNw3Z_Bh4OOL4Qmg?docId=CNG.cb9a703546a716b6ea833e7994a082c9.2b1

http://www.news-africa.com/demonstrators-throng-swaziland-capital-calling-for-gov%E2%80%99t-reform-protesting-pay-freezes/

-President Zuma of South Africa called for a private meeting with King Mswati III the day before the protest took place. ANC Youth League of South Africa also voiced their opinions.

http://www.observer.org.sz/index.php?news=22433

-What some referred to as the "Mother of All Protests" and others were calling it the beginning of a "Revolution", a large protest was scheduled for 3 days starting on April 12th, the day when political parties were banned 34 years ago. The week before the protests were scheduled to take place, the Prime Minister declared all protests that week illegal. The days leading up to the protest, the streets were heavily patrolled by armed guards and policemen.

http://www.timeslive.co.za/local/article1014563.ece/Swaziland-billed-as-next-domino-to-fall

http://www.nytimes.com/2011/04/13/world/africa/13swaziland.html

http://mg.co.za/article/2011-03-26-swazis-call-for-change

http://mg.co.za/article/2011-04-13-brutal-crackdown-routs-swazi-protesters

-International African trade unions have requested the African Union Commission (AUC) to intervene.

http://www.times.co.sz/News/27859.html

-Swazi labor unions are planning monthly protests.

http://www.news24.com/Africa/News/Swazi-unions-plan-monthly-protests-20110420




It goes without saying that this is a very strange and difficult time not only for me, but for this naturally peaceful country who has never seen war. This has been the first time I've ever seen such a heavy presence of guards and policemen armed with AK 47s, tanks in the cities, and a large amount of road blocks. It's alarming. My heart goes out to every country in this world who is currently in a war, who faces genocide, and those who have been and are currently facing heavy political unrest. There is so much death and destruction in this world and it makes me sick. Will human kind ever be rid of the thirst addiction of blood and power?

Marula Festival!

Behold, the Marula Season is upon us! Every year Swaziland sets aside a month of celebration to enjoy the fruits of the earth. One fruit specifically, the marula fruit that ripens and becomes alcohol. Women from around the country gather for the weekend and bring their marula for both themselves and as a gift for the king. For a country that is normally highly against alcohol and against anyone that consumes it, it seems they are easy to set aside all beliefs and drink their heart's desire for the month. It's a contradiction I do not understand but also a very fun tradition that I'm happy I got to experience. This past weekend was the official start of the Marula Season and my first encounter with this unique holiday.

The Marula Festival (which is the official kick off for the Marula Season) is held annually in my region, and takes place within the King's Kraal. I went down on Friday to check out the scene. It was identical to tailgate parties in the U.S. Truck after truck entered the area carrying loads of Bo-Make (mothers) and Bo-Gogo (grandmothers). There were grills set up, a Coca-Cola booth, people selling goods, and everyone just hanging out, talking and sitting beneath trees. I found out that the dancing and festivities were to begin the following day.

On Saturday I went down and met some friends. As we sat under a tree and talked, two men interrupted us and started with the normal marriage proposals and propositions of love. We eventually turned the conversation towards HIV, which is our goal as HIV health educators. What started out as a normal conversation on health, HIV, and AIDS took a turn for worse when a police officer joined the conversation and blamed us personally and America, for bringing HIV to Swaziland. As soon as a figure of authority said this, it immediately became a statement- and being a woman in a male dominated society anything we said would be a lie. The 2 men we were talking to immediately started blaming us. It was the most frustrating, difficult, and unpleasant conversation I have EVER had. Not only were their facts all wrong, gender specific issues were addressed (women could not/should not say and do things- even at the most basic level), they brought in the Bible which they had NO idea what they were talking about but because we were women they would not listen to a word we said, and anything that a male figure head would say would automatically become the truth no matter how inaccurate and laughable that statement would seem. This conversation nearly ruined the day for me, but luckily more friends arrived and the drunk Bo-Gogo stumbling around and singing diverted my attention. We went into the main area where I bought some Swazi jewelry to compliment my traditional Swazi wear I was sporting. As we sat inside waiting for the dancing to start,another man approached us. This time the conversation was a pleasant one. We talked about traveling and the States. He had traveled all around the world and his wealth was made apparent not just in the places he's been but in his attire. He was very pleasant but as we talked, I could not help but wonder what do the 70% of Swazi's that live in Rural Communities and live on less than 2 dollars a day think and feel when they see a someone like him? Do they just accept it as a way of life, or do they question the possibility of corruption and injustice? The rich and the poor are on opposite ends of the spectrum and it's heartbreaking to see it and not be able to do anything to change it. The dancing started shortly after. It was amazing. Endless groups of women entered the kraal dancing and singing. The King and the Queen Mother entered with armed guards a little while later. We left shortly after in order to make it back to site, missing the dance by both the King and Queen Mother. Maybe next year I will catch their dance. In the meantime, here's to another beautiful day in Swaziland!