Friday, October 1, 2010

Swaz in the news

Every day provides a new opportunity and challenge. I find myself constantly growing; my eyes being opened to the harsh realities of this unforgiving world. Through all of the masks and facades as well as the excitement, blindness, and pre-conceived notions that comes from being thrust into a new culture (especially in going to a continent where its history and the foundation of the current governing systems is the direct result of the greediness of mankind), I am slowly learning that life is not black and white. Here are two pieces of writing which I found very interesting and I'd like to share them.

The first is an article published in The Economist.
http://www.economist.com/node/17046710

The second is an excerpt from a fellow volunteer concerning the current problems and "solutions" about HIV in Swaziland and our work as it is related to Peace Corps Volunteers. She has spoken so thoroughly, accurately, and eloquently about it that I would never be able to convey the message as beautifully as she did.
The link: theyshouldhavesentapoet.blogspot.com. Titled: "What's the Solution?" written on September 14, 2010.

Read it, process it, and think about your life-how blessed you may or may not be. There is always room for improvement and for a healthy change. Think about what you can do to make your life/community/state/country/world a better place to live in. <3

Sunday, September 19, 2010

"lean a little bit closer see what roses really smell like whoowoowoo"

As I promised, here is a wonderful and humorous story about fetching water in rural Swaziland. To make things easier for myself, I've decided that I'm going to attempt at keeping the 100 L barrels full and use only the 20 L buckets. This way if I'm ever sick, need to travel, or if the water isn't available on any given day I will be fine. The first time I attempted at filling up my buckets, I borrowed my family's wheelbarrow, and over confidently, brought 3 buckets to fill. On my walk down I made sure to thank God that it was overcast. I mean, what better luck to get water for the first time and not have the scorching sun baring down on you? I thought I was blessed. As I took my place at the back of the line, I stared at the bomake (mothers) and bosisi (sisters) just sitting there chatting. The woman in charge of the pump would get up, leave for some time then return, fill up 1 bucket then leave again. I thought it was out of pure laziness and my patience was already running low. Then, I realized something. Something very important for future reference. The hidden sun (which I was SO ecstatic about) is HOW we get our water. The tap works on solar power. (A foreigner donated it to this community- and I definitely prefer the borehole which is not easier but it's definitely faster.) The sun pumps up the water from underground and when there's no sun, there's no water (or very little). I sighed at this realization 1) because it took me so long to figure it out, 2) because I was so thankful for the weather and it ended up being the worst circumstances, and 3) it would be my luck, right? haha. So, by this time most of the people left to...well do whatever they do (which I haven't been quite able to figure out) but they left their buckets there to be filled in their absence. The Make running the tap felt so bad for me, she let me skip the whole line and fill up just 1 of my buckets. It took a good 30 minutes to fill it up. On my walk back I discovered that 1 bucket in a rusted, crappy, old, broken wheelbarrow was more than enough. In total it took me around 2.5 hours to get water, and I was thankful I didn't get all 3 buckets filled. That 20 liter bucket lasted me a week. Most of it going to drinking, and a minimal amount for cooking, cleaning, and bathing. Let me just emphasize that bathing has become an art. I can now bathe with 1 L of water and I'm proud of it. I also get maybe 2 baths a week, 3 if I'm lucky. Which would also be fine if I wasn't constantly sweating and caked in sand and dirt. Good thing my skin's already brown. shoot. Anyways, the 2nd time I fetched water, it took 3 hours but I was able to fill 2 buckets. Hopefully it will last 2 weeks? It's looking like it :)

There has been 2 funerals since I wrote the last entry. One of a close neighbor, and the other a community member. How depressing. It's just another confirmation on how emotionally difficult this is going to be. In other news, I got a much needed "vacation"! During integration we are allowed 1 night away per month. I used mine to visit a good friend and see what life was like down south. It is definitely the suburbs of Swaziland down there. While I was a bit jealous of the easy access to water, beautiful and big huts, reliable transportation, proximity to town, how close other volunteers are to each other, how much cooler the weather is, that they have a KFC and a produce market in town, etc. I did walk away with an appreciation for my site. There aren't many volunteers who get to experience life in this way: homesteads spread out, untouched land, lots of walking, the rarity of electricity (at night it is beautiful with barely any house lights and with wildfires lighting up the mountains), working for water, and all the perks that come with living so removed from civilization, where our biggest shopping town isn't even on the map! haha. The next day I went to the PC office to use the internet, check any snail mail that may have come in, and pick up books to read. Definitely got lost and spent 1.5 hrs aimlessly walking around, hoping I'd stumble upon it. A local got me in the general direction of it and boy, was I far off. I should have paid more attention when they showed us around after swear in! Although I do have a legitimate excuse for that. I had some sort of weird allergic reaction to something, my body welted and swelled up and I was on heavy amounts of medication. I'm still not sure what the reaction was to, but a friend from Kenya joked, "It's Africa. You become allergic to everything here!" haha. In any case I found the office, spent 3 hours uploading 3 pictures, picked up 8 books to read which will hopefully last me through the month, got a letter from my mother and Kashie Kash!, ate a chicken sandwich and ice cream both for the first time (from KFC), got sick from the ice cream and chicken sandwich because it was so rich (not used to having flavor), and lastly, ATE A BURGER! Successful trip? I'd say so. :) But to make a long story short, I almost didn't make it back to my homestead. I gave myself 3 hours to get back, which should've been more than enough. Sadly, it took 4.5. The truck I caught back kept on breaking down and the driver had to work on it multiple times in the darkness- as I had mentioned earlier, very few lights in my community. There was one point where the truck almost stalled as we were heading for a bridge (with no barriers on the sides of the bridge). It was a great feeling. But, I'm alive and well, and that's all that matters!

Friday, September 17, 2010

Worth it? nope... :)




I've been trying to upload photos for a month now. 150 Emalangeni and countless hours later I finally have 3 photos up! haha. Enjoy :)

Sunday, September 5, 2010

Discomfort courtesy of US Peace Corps

Update:

We swore in as Peace Corps Volunteers on August 23rd. On the 24th we went to Mbabane and spent 2 days shopping, relaxing, and seeing the capital. (Do not be fooled by the word capital. Swaziland's capital is roughly the size of Westwood by UCLA minus the pretty buildings, nice stores, and restaurants. Let it also be known that movie theaters do not exist here and that KFC is the most posh restaurant I've seen!) Being that it was the first time I've been outside a hut after sunset, it was also the first time I went to a bar in Swaziland. Not surprisingly, the only females in there were PCVs (as drinking is highly frowned upon and females aren't supposed to drink in public). It is rumored that PC Swaziland has the highest number of volunteers converting to alcoholism as a result from what I'm assuming is the strict cultural barriers of this country. In comparing African PC posts to other posts worldwide, someone once joked, welcome to oppressive corps! On August 26th we moved to our permanent sites. I was incredibly blessed by the PC office to assist me in filling up my two 100 L water tanks and two 25 L buckets with water. I cannot thank them enough for that as water is and will be a challenge for me. Oddly enough with a truck, 4 Swazis, my 2 fellow volunteers, and myself, it took around 2 hours to fill up and transport the water back to my homestead. It should be incredibly interesting when I have to get my own water by means of a wheel barrel. Stories are sure to come. That being said, I have never been so stingy with water. I have also never found so many ways to recycle water. As disgusting as it may be- it works and it's saving me unnecessary trips to the borehole. That's all that matters. I can honestly say that I will never be the same. I'll never take water for granted, and I'll be careful as to not waste it. I can't help but feel ashamed on how I, and we- as Americans and as a Western Civilization- use and abuse water privileges. Because here, water is a blessing. It is never taken for granted.

I spent my first week at site decorating and organizing my little hut. I bought an amazing bed (which is a story in and of itself: I got completely lost on the drive back -all dirt roads look the same and street names/addresses do not exist, directions are given based on scenery and any possible landmark- so I ended up by another volunteer and had to tip the driver extra because of our multiple detours haha), I made screens out of mosquito nets, I made my own "closet", and created a small bathroom outfitted with a solar shower and a toilet (A.K.A. a pee bucket) because being outside at night is not safe. In any case I also have electricity!! God is good. There had to be one positive. The irony of it all is that I never cared about electricity. I would trade anything and everything for easy access to water. But I've always been a strong believer in the idea that everything happens for a reason. Even if it is only to teach me a lesson or make me grow stronger. So, though I have to work for the "necessities" in life, I will be stronger for it. This past weekend was one of the most rewarding and rejuvenating yet! I've been so bored at site that the nearest volunteer graciously agreed to meet up. Due to the friendly and talkative nature of Swazi people, I missed the one kumbi departing in her direction. It was a 2.5 hour power walk to her place, but it was also exactly what I needed. Fresh air, beautiful scenery, and simply time to get lost in my thoughts. Once I arrived there, we went on a 2 hour hike in the bush. It was truly Africa. No roads, homes, or people. Just dirt, sand, bushes, thorns, cows and warthogs! We found a dam, a river, and a dead cow. We also may have stumbled into South Africa. It's a possibility as there are no defined borderlines. I love it! To top the weekend off, the HhoHho warriors (or outcasts) Eric, Rob and I met up to celebrate Labor Day Weekend and Swaziland's Independence Day. This of course was just another excuse to hang out, since the cluster of people down south seem to have weekly reunions. It was also a chance to eat some meat. Plain, boiled chicken never tasted so delicious!! I've never appreciated meat more than I do now.

I've also been bored out of my mind- so after doing everything I could possibly think of, and sadly even after attempting to get water (only to find that the tap was not working that day), I finally opened up my PC books and handouts to read. While other PC posts have detailed job descriptions on exactly what they will be doing, with whom and where they will be working, PC Swazi is unique. Our job description is simply to work on "HIV prevention and impact mitigation". This is incredibly broad, allowing us the flexibility and freedom to choose what we want to do. But this is also nerve racking in the sense that the impact we will have on these people depend ENTIRELY upon our motivation, creativity, determination, will, and resources. As one of our handouts says, "it can pose a challenge to volunteers overwhelmed by the enormity of the problems they face." This leaves me here. I'm in the integration period, beginning to get to know my community in order to understand their needs and what ways I can best facilitate learning to them. It is said that roughly only 1/3 of volunteers make it through the entire 2 years here in Swaziland. If this statistic is true, it's probably due to the nature of the work we've entered into. Emotionally and mentally draining and in truth-it's daunting to even think about it. We've been warned multiple times that we will be affected by this disease. 1 in 4 people are infected with HIV- we are bound to feel the effects. Anyone, including our family, friends, co-workers, and acquaintances might pass and that takes a toll on the spirit. I'm nervous but determined! I can do all things through Christ who strengthens me. Thank God- He's provided me with such a strong support system- both here and in the States.

To end on a humorous side:
"Are you thinking of raping a child today? Think twice of the consequences" - A billboard in the city. (Good message, bad that it needs to be advertised)
"Discomfort courtesy of US Peace Corps" -Brian
"Is it Rum? Whiskey? Water? No, it's ORS." -In a bar in Swazi
-AND most unfortunately: I am becoming a vegetarian: Neither by will nor by choice. Sadly, I also wish I was eating vegetables (in being a VEGEtarian). I haven't found anyone yet who grows them in my community and the heat kills any fresh produce I bring from the rare trips to town. Bread, corn and porridge (the staple foods) are not just bland, but it's the ONLY thing I eat. I'm looking forward to the day I can have meat: chicken, beef, goat, pig...anything. I'm getting so desperate. maybe one day I'll be blessed with a burger? Or pizza? Or to dream: seafood and sushi? Christmas can't come soon enough! "Discomfort courtesy of US Peace Corps" - I joined this willingly. haha.

Wednesday, August 11, 2010

Mambas!

Between now and the last post, much has happened. Site Placements were announced on July 27th. I will be in the Hhohho Region. During our On the Job Training (OJT) we spent a week in our new community getting to know the people and the place. It was an absolutely terrible experience for me, and I was at the point of asking Peace Corps to move me. But, in our final days there, we had the opportunity to meet up with a current PCV (Peace Corps Volunteer), and after hanging out with her-I came to terms with my place. The closest PCV will be about a 2.5-3 hour walk from me (walk-being the key word, as transportation is not readily available). Seeing her place definitely put me at ease about mine. Hearing her insane stories (both good and bad) is a big reason in why I would like to stick this out and attempt at living there. One of the more hilarious stories is about the black and green mambas. She’s had multiple mamba’s inside of her hut. These snakes are poisonous and one could die within 15 minutes of being bit. Well at one point she had about 30 community members inside of her hut with spears. It was a huge ordeal but they killed it, left blood everywhere, and made her drink a “special mixture” so she would be safe. Needless to say, her community loves her, and I feel that mine would do the same for me too! Another funny story is that a few volunteers were hiking one day around our communities. As they were walking, they passed a drunk gogo (grandmother). She started pointing her fingers in a shape of a gun at them and shooting them, then laughing. She continued doing this, and followed them until they realized what she was doing. Apparently she was trying to warn them that if they proceeded further, they would be shot. (We are very close to the south african border and it is an illegal crossing point-thus the shooting). The stories I will get from being so isolated is definitely a perk that I’m looking forward to. :)
To help you imagine my new community, here are some assets HA! (rather obstacles) about it: The King visited our communities last year and told them they were the most rural in all of Swaziland. My community is very large, about 10,000 people. It consists of 7 “areas” within the community. My counterpart introduced me to the next “area” over and I was informed that water is not available to them. In the dry season they often resort to digging holes in the ground until they collect enough water to drink... I have special permission from the Peace Corps Swazi office to ride in the back of pick-up trucks. To do so otherwise, is considered “risky behavior” and volunteers can be sent home for doing so. Though I’m located in the mountains, it is sand. Children play in it as though they are at the beach. Which also means that getting my water, to drink, cook, and wash clothes in, will be a constant struggle for me. I’m either going to be very skinny (and strong) or very stink by the end of this. I hope it’s the first. Haha. Another thing is that I have to be very safe and attentive about my surroundings at ALL times. A gang from South Africa was crossing the border a few weeks ago and robbed prominent figures in the community adjacent to mine. They also kidnapped dogs and killed them in the middle of the night. These men were arrested but a new group emerged and had not only robbed but also raped two small children. This happened a few days ago, to a house not far from my site...It is advised that I do not walk alone but when there’s no transportation, I do not see how this is possible. I’m contemplating purchasing a dog for security reasons. The only thing stopping me is that I do not know what my future holds- and my ideal plan is to travel for quite some time after my service ends. There is no possible way that I could leave my dog here...It is heartbreaking to see how dogs are treated here.

I swear in as an official Peace Corps Volunteer in less than 2 weeks. It's crazy how fast time flies by. When I have more time, money (for internet connection) and battery life, I will update you again. Until then, please keep the comments and emails coming! They are motivating and they keep my spirit lifted. Although I don't have time to respond now, I will have 3 months of NOTHING and I will be responding to every single one of you that's written. All my love. <3

Some Swazi Stats

Written on July 20, 2010

To sum up the past month would be impossible for me to do. But I will try my best. As I had mentioned earlier, I have my own hut, no electricity, and no running water. I draw my water from the tap which is a .5 mile- 2 mile walk/hike, varying on which taps are working that day. My temporary Swazi host family (while in training) is absolutely incredible and they try to give me their water, but either way someone has to do manual labor. I refuse to let them do my work for me. Right now it is winter in Swaziland. I am in the coldest region, and while it does get incredibly cold (I wake up shivering every night), it gets hot during the day. Everyone wears coats and jackets while I'm taking off layers...I can only imagine what summer is going to be like and I'm scared. As for my life, it's going great. My brown skin is a HUGE advantage here. Everyone wants to get to know me and be friends. That will be highly beneficial when I move to my permanent site and am required to investigate the needs of that specific community. But, this also makes me a target...I get marriage proposals and declarations of love daily. A group of respected gentlemen in the community asked my teacher if they could set me up with a prospect because they thought I was a hard worker. (And by "set up" they mean marriage). Even my bhuti (brother) had tried to marry me off to one of his friends. His friend had "fallen in love at first sight". These Swazi men sure are sweet talkers. haha. Women are not allowed to drink (in public). I was talking with some older women and they told me they do, but only in their houses and should not be seen. Understandable. Nudity is considered from the waist down. Not so understandable. I'm incredibly excited to learn how to play the drums and do traditional Swazi dancing. I have officially become known for the songs "Waka Waka" by Shakira and "Wavin Flag" by K'naan. My family and friends play it whenever I'm around. I have also decided that a pool party is going to happen in the next 2 years. And by pool party I mean a group of us coming together with our bath basins, filling them up with cold water and sitting in them under a tree. It's going to happen. Speaking of bath basins- bucket bathing...is not so fun. I never thought I'd say this, but I think I prefer Morocco’s common baths or even their shower/toilet (2 in 1 deal). Women are not allowed to be out after sunset (by 5:30 it's dark). Without electricity I am asleep by 8 pm, and am awake before sunrise. It's crazy how much my life has changed. I am forbidden to exit my hut at night, given the instructions to use a pee bucket. ya right. I broke that rule my first week here. SPAIN WON the world cup! I got to watch it with a local Swazi family who had electricity and purchased cable for the month just to watch the games. The difficult part was knowing that we are only 4 miles away from the South African border and yet could not be there to watch the game in person... Every night I sit on my doorstep and watch as the sun sets behind the South African mountains. I light my candle then stare up at the sky thanking God for this blessed life I am living. I then retreat into my hut and fall asleep to the angelic voices of African hymns being sung in the church behind my homestead. What an absolute blessing.

Some Swazi Stats:

- Swaziland is the last absolute monarchy in Africa

- Has the HIGHEST HIV/AIDS in the world. 26% of the nation has it. 1 in 4 people.

- The highest prevalence of TB in the world

-The lowest life expectancy in the world (in 2008 estimated between 32-35)

- The average life span is 31.3 years

- In 2007 the death rates exceeded the birth rates for the 1st time.

- Also has the highest lightning strike victims in the world (15.5 per million per year-2008)

- The 2 most common misconceptions: HIV is spread through mosquitoes and sharing food leads to HIV

-children are taught at an extremely early age about HIV. They are also taught to NOT touch blood

-Swaziland is one of the few countries in Africa to never have civil war.

- How the monarchy is chosen is incredibly fascinating, and if you are ever curious let me know and I'll tell you ALL about it! Just to get your minds thinking: the Queen is not a wife of the King. It is the King's mother.

-King Mswati III has 13 wives. He also invited Peace Corps back into Swaziland so I owe him my gratitude!! We are also forbidden to speak about politics- so although there is much to say, that is where I will end.

-Sobhuza I is another incredibly interesting story. Sobhuza I had a vision of a white man coming to Swaziland. The white man was holding two things: a Bible in one hand, and money in the other. Sobhuza told his son, the next king, and the people of Swaziland to embrace and welcome the white man. He told them to accept the Bible and not to harm the white man nor to take the money. The white men came during the next king's rule and they were welcomed. Though religion was the root of many problems in Africa, because Sobhuza was such a respected king, Christianity will forever be a part of the Swaziland culture.

-The missionaries who first came to Swaziland were not very Christian at all. They bribed the locals to convert offering food and medical attention only in exchange for conversion. People became whatever religion was offered to them because of the disparity that they were in. I can't help but feel ashamed and resentful from what those initial "Christian" missionaries brought to Africa...

-Male circumcision is new to Swaziland. It was introduced within the last 2 years and without it, it is a huge contributing factor to the spread of HIV. They are targeting males aged 16-30's. Ouch. They are not circumcising babies as there is an ethical debate about it.

-UGANDA is our beacon of HOPE! The government of Uganda recognized AIDS was fatal and they made a zero grazing law (staying faithful to ONE partner). They also enacted the ABC's. Abstinence, Be Faithful, and Condoms. This government recognition as well as the knowledge put into action and practice by the local community members is how the country lowered their HIV rates to less than 5%. INCREDIBLE.

-In Swaziland there are 27,000 births annually. 39% of women pregnant are HIV positive. That means that 10,500 infants are exposed to HIV annually...

-We are told it will get worse before it gets better. I pray this is not the case. Swaziland has the knowledge, they just need to act.

- Swaziland population: 1.08 million. 46% under 15 years and only 3% is over 65 years

-76% of Swazi people live in rural communities. Rural people live on Swazi Nation Land.

- Literacy rate is 79.6% and 92% in younger generation

-Employment rate is 71%

-69% are classified as poor (living on less than 2 dollars a day).

This is just a small glimpse into what I will be doing the next few years and I am SO excited!

Friday, July 9, 2010

Bored? Finish a Project

It's been 2 weeks and I've finally got access to the internet. Hallelujah! Only to find mass emails from insurance companies, and loan lenders all wanting money. It feels good to be out of the U.S. and NOT have to deal with my financial obligations (Thank you mom and dad). :)

A brief update: I live in my own hut. There are 37 volunteers and almost all have electricity. I am the exception. I read and write by candlelight. I bucket-bathe at night and hand wash all of my clothes. I dance to Shakira's waka waka song with my bo-sisi every night. I am learning to cook this week and have learned how to "find our cow". Chickens like to hang out in my hut with me. I am also supposed to be home right now (as it is near sunset and I am still far away-). I guess that is my cue to leave. So until next time. Love you all. <3

My favorite quotes of the week:

If you are bored, take your teacup somewhere.

Bored? Finish a project.
Angry? Go ride your bike.
Lonely? Visit a neighbor.
Guilty? Apologize.
Hungry? Eat.

It's just not a toilet seat phenomenon! (In reguards to catching crabs on toilet seats)